It’s May in the Western Cape-the horizon starts to fade to deep shades of charcoal. Sandals are replaced with comfy Ugg boots and the post-surf beer is exchanged for a warming cup of hot chocolate. It’s time to head northwards-direction equator where the sun rays have not yet given way to winter’s icy harshness.

A short plane ride away and we find ourselves weaving our way through the maze of sugar cane plantations. A green mamba writhes its way across our path. Before I can even reach for the camera it has climbed to the top of an avocado tree. A cow lazily lifts its head as our rental car kicks up dust in its face.  The road deteriorates to knee deep sandy soil that our cheapo rental manages to negotiate effortlessly. In front of us Neptune serves up a tasty appetizer of a 3-4ft reeling right hand point break.

We dust off our 3:2 mm wetsuits, replace the wax on our boards and scurry down through the dense vegetation, across the railroad tracks over a makeshift football field and onto the sand. The rock jump looks sketchy. We hope there’ll be a local to show us the way. But alas, there is no one else around. One set, two set, three…paddle, paddle, paddle, scratch over the 4th set to the backline. I feel my hair-it’s dry.

Warm water. Bath water. Long, rippable, clean walls. Just the two of us. The land breeze bringing with it the sweet treacle-like smell of burning sugar cane. Like clockwork, the mid-morning onshore sets in, signaling the end of the day’s session. My arms are thankful.

The days that follow we awake with the sunrise. The swell continues to roll in from the South. We surf until we’re tired. Not because we’re freezing. What a treat for a Cape Town born surfer.

Six days later I’m donning my 4:3mm steamer and scraping off that warm water wax. 30 guys out in the line up-I go for a paddle anyway. No dodgy rock jump or bait bins. Perfect, icy, sand bottomed straight-handers. An hour later and the ‘claw’ sets in. Time to get out. I slip into those cosy, Ugg boots and warm up with hot chocolate. I feel refreshed and alive from the inside-the feeling only a cold water surf can give you. As the sun dips into the horizon, the sky ignites into brushstrokes of luminescent orange and pink. Lion’s Head winks at me as if to welcome me home.

As Capetonian surfers we are spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing a spot to surf. The way the Cape Peninsula juts out into the Atlantic ocean creates two defined coastlines known locally as ‘the Atlantic’ and ‘False Bay’ sides.

The Atlantic side of the Peninsula would include spots such as Big Bay (Bloubergstrand) and Milnerton. The ‘False Bay’ side would include Muizenberg and Strand. There are an array of other surf spots along these coasts, however we have only made mention of those spots suitable for beginner to intermediate surfers.

Once you have done our ‘Uber-Stoked’ 4- surf lesson package and feel confident to paddle out into the appropriate beginner surf on your own, it’s time to start understanding the way the geography of the Cape Peninsula affects the prevailing wind and swell conditions (and in turn the surf).

Starting with the element we as Capetonians are very familiar with-the wind

An ‘offshore’ wind is a wind that blows from the shore to the ocean. Generally, this is the most desirable wind condition for most surf spots as an offshore wind grooms the face of the wave into a smooth wall and assists in ‘holding’ the wave up so one can usually surf it longer. Offshore winds are characterized with a plume of white spray blowing off the back of a wave.

Wind is named from the direction from which it blows i.e. a South Easterly wind blows from the South East. If you look at the diagram below, it is clear that a South Easterly wind will result in ‘onshore’ conditions on the False Bay coast, and ‘offshore’ conditions on the Atlantic coast. The converse is true when a North Westerly wind blows i.e. it will be ‘onshore’ along most beaches on the Atlantic Coast and ‘offshore’ in False Bay. This is a very general statement. When you improve your level of surfing and start venturing out to other surf spots, you may find certain spots along these coastlines that ‘work’ in supposedly onshore conditions.

Swell direction (along with height and period) is the other factor one needs to consider when choosing a spot to surf. Swell is generated by low pressure systems that form along the ‘Roaring Forties’ i.e. at 40 degree south of the equator. The high winds that are generated by these low pressure systems displace of water (in a similar fashion to the ripple effect that is created when you blow on the surface of your cup of coffee). This displacement of water sends out powerful ‘ripples’ or bands of swell into the ocean.

This swell then moves until it finds landfall. The trough’s of the swell are slowed down by the continental shelf (ocean floor), causing the crests to catch up resulting in a breaking wave.

The beaches where one will find the best waves, will depend on the direction in which the swell approaches the Peninsula as well as the wind that is blowing at the time. i.e. generally, a South Westerly/Westerly swell (the most predominant swell direction along the Cape Peninsula) with a period of 12s or more, combined with a South Easterly wind produces better waves along the Atlantic Coast.

However, these are broad statements. As you gain further insight into how waves are affected by the local geography and meteorology, you will find protected bays that shelter certain winds or that are exposed to any bit of swell that hits the Peninsula. These are kept as local’s secrets, the right of passage being many hours in the frigid Atlantic waters and many kilometers driven in search of the best spots.

There are various websites you can consult before hitting the road. At Stoked, we use a combination of www.windguru.com, and www.magicseasweed.com There are also webcams set up around the Peninsula which you can find here:

If the surf is up, load up the boards and hit the road with a flask of coffee and some good tunes. As Cape Town surfers we often look for greener pastures hoping that the waves in the next bay will be better than our first spot check. Conditions can change quickly. We have learnt that if there are good enough waves in front of you, stop your search and paddle out. The only way to know-is to go.

So you’ve done the surf lessons bought the surfboard, know where to surf and now it’s time to get out there. Before setting foot into the ocean outside of the controlled surf lesson environment, there are a few golden rules that we encourage you to abide by to ensure a safe and enjoyable surf experience:

#1 Drive with care

Before you hit the road, make sure that your boards are tied down securely. There’s no need to speed, even if the waves are cranking. Be careful in parking lots at the beaches. Ensure there are no boards (or small children) behind your car before reversing out of your bay. If traveling through smaller coastal towns or the more rural areas of Southern Africa, drive with care.

#2 Study the surf and currents

We recommend watching the ocean for 5-10 minutes (or at least for a set or two) before paddling out, studying the currents and taking note of where the main peak is. Look out for any possible dangers like rock or reef. If it is the first time you are surfing a break, we recommend chatting to a local to ensure there’s no danger you may have missed. Most locals are happy to assist if you ask.

#3 Surf waves suited to your ability

Do not paddle out somewhere that is beyond your capability. Not only can you put yourself in danger, but you run the risk of putting fellow surfers in a dangerous position too.

Just got back from a morning of watching Cape Town’s local big wave chargers brave the ‘Dungeon’. 15-18ft mountains of ocean marched in from the roaring forties finding landfall at the famed Dungeons big wave surf spot just off the Sentinel in Hout Bay. This spot requires a specific combination of swell height and direction along with light winds for it to be possible for the surfers to paddle in to the waves rather than to tow in. Today Neptune smiled upon these guys producing a fantastic show drawing a crew of cameramen, safety jet skis and several boat loads of spectators. A whale even graced us with its presence as it came to investigate what all the deep ocean activity was about. Some surfers got steam rolled into the inside by massive sneaker sets. Several took some steep air drops into the pit. Some made it. Some ate it. Others returned to shore with broken boards. All of us left humbled by the power of the ocean. Here are some amateur shots capturing a bit of the drama:

Jetski lineup at Dungeons.

Dungeons Peak.

The Media Crew Dungeons Media Crew.

Bowling Dungeon Peak.

Dungeons Death Pit.

Dungeons surfer blown off the back of the wave.

Classic Dungeons.

Steep drop. But he made it.

Surfing Dungeons.

Pitching Dungeons Dungeons line up.

Starting at the Dungeon.

Chasing the foam. Dungeon Rider.

Dungeons Broken Board.

Skippering at Dungeons.

Over the falls and eating it.

Garden Route Surf Trip

After a few consecutive weeks of bitterly cold winter weather, a surf trip up the East Coast was a welcomed adventure-warmer water, good surf and the open road. Juliette, Sarah and I cruised along the spectacular Clarens Drive breathing in the scenery and then stopped for our first surf at Pringle Bay. The water was surprisingly much warmer than Cape Town (which was under an hour away). The sun was out and we headed across the sand dunes for our first surf session of the trip. We all caught a couple of good waves and then headed off to Hermanus for lunch before winding through the wheat and Canola fields of the Southern Cape. The winter rains had breathed new life into the fields since our last Garden Route adventure.

The rolling hills of the Overberg region had literally burst into vivid  hues of green and gold. We reached Cape Agulhas just as the sun began  dipping into the horizon so headed straight for the Southernmost Tip of  Africa to enjoy a sundowner with one foot in the Atlantic and the other  in the Indian Ocean.

Arniston:

Another gorgeous day of weather greeted us on day two of the trip. We wound through the farm roads from Cape Agulhas to Arniston, one of the most picturesque fishing villages of the East Coast. The beauty about traveling this stretch of coastline during the week is that often we find we are the only people on the beach. The waves were average, but the girls still had a blast. We walked across the sand dunes to the look out point over the next bay-where again there was not a soul in sight. We really are fortunate to have such pristine, untouched and protected areas of coastline in South Africa where development is still not permitted.

Myoli Beach:

We hit the road for Myoli Beach, a stunning piece of coastline just south of Buffalo Bay. We stopped off at Vic Bay along the way to watch some guys catching some 4-6ft lumps of a storm swell at the point. Coach was keen to get out there but needed someone to coax her into the treacherous paddle out, so mind-surfed from the side lines instead. That’s when having a camera in hand is a good excuse 🙂

That evening we enjoyed a vegetarian feast cooked up over the ‘braai’ true South African style by our host, Lyle. The beers were flowing and so was the conversation as we huddled around the fire under the beauty of the Milky Way.

Buffalo Bay Plettenberg Bay:

After a sunrise walk and breakfast on the roof top terrace at Myoli Beach Lodge, we headed to Robberg 5, our choice for day three’s morning surf session. Again we were blessed with sunshine, warmer water and fun waves. After a couple hours of working up an appetite in the surf we enjoyed a delicious meal at The Deck drinking in its sweeping views of the bay (along with a cheeky lunchtime shandy). We headed back to Buffalo Bay for the afternoon surf session via the Knysna Heads, where all of us were left in awe by the dramatic landscape.

Cape St Franscis  Jeffrey’s Bay:

Day four and by this stage coach was frothing for some good east Coast point break surf. With the first glimpse of the ocean as we descended the hill into the Seal Point parking lot, it was clear that the beach break was the best option. The girls caught some fun waves on the inside, whilst coach managed to sneak into a few backline bombs.

All of us were so stoked after this session and arrived in Jeffrey’s Bay amped for another good surf. Again, we were greeted with perfect conditions only a short walk from our beachfront room at Island Vibe Backpackers. We suited up (thank goodness for the luxury of two wetsuits) and got some more wave time until the stars pierced the dusk sky. That evening we indulged at our favourite local restuarant, Ninos, whilst watching surf movies on the big screen. The perfect end to one of the best surf days of the trip.

Day five and everyone was quite exhausted and ready to take some time to chill out, visit the surf museum and browse the endless throng of surf clothing factory outlets. Juliette and Sarah were keen to take a day off from surfing. They couldn’t have timed it better as a gale force Westerly wind was blowing. Coach, in her attempt to set a good example and keep the stoke flowing, paddled out despite the strong winds and almost got herself a cheap ticket to New Zealand. But did manage to sneak into a couple of fun waves. Its always worth the paddle. After a good day of rest, the girls were ready to hit the surf again on day six. After a morning session at Jeffrey’s we headed for Cape St Franscis too see if that beachie was working again. As we rounded the corner, coaches heart began to flutter at the beautiful sight of groomed lines of swell marching into the bay with the offshore wind fanning plumes of spray off the back of the 4-5ft sets. It was colder than it had been and so coach changed into her wetsuit in the car (quite a tricky feat in the minimal space of a citi golf driver’s seat). Juliette and Sarah decided to give this surf session a skip and opted for getting it on film from the warmth and comfort of the car instead. That evening we enjoyed another good meal at Nino’s and toasted to a fun week of great experiences together.

Living in Cape Town one knows that experiencing all four seasons in one day is very likely due to the geography of the Cape Peninsula. When I left the Stoked Headquarters, the sun was shining between patches of light rain. Despite the dismal weather report, I headed off beachwards optimistically, switched on my iTrip where synchronicity had Pink Floyd promising ‘Blue skies ahead’. Driving down the highway to pick up students from Observatory, I noticed the horizon darkening to a deep shade of grey. As I rounded Devil’s Peak, a torrential down pour englufed my car. I knew that the wind and swell conditions for Muizenberg were good (infact the webcam image made it hard not to put pedal to the metal). Trying to convince first and second time surfers that they were still going to have a good time despite the weather seemed like it may now be a challenge, as my car carved up deep puddles of rain into sprays of water with impressive trajectory.

Steve and Magdelena hopped in the car drenched but smiling with excitement. It was then that I realised that my students trusted me enough to commit to the lesson despite the weather. This is when my ‘100% guaranteed stoked’ claim was going to be put to the test.  We continued on to the beach to meet the rest of the students-Johan, Claudia, Mandy and Louise. I had just spent the past twenty minutes convincing Steve and Magdelena that all our storms move in from the south so essentially we should be driving away from the rain as the storm cloud seemed northbound. Well, my theory proved incorrect (and clearly my high school geography needing some serious revision) as upon arrival, the heavens opened. Time for a plan B…quickly I arranged for us to use an indoor changing facility which also offers hot post-surf showers. As I handed out a wetsuit to each student I could sense they were looking at me with thoughts of ‘Is she serious? Are we really going to do this?’ Fortunately, after everyone had changed into their gear, the squall had moved on. Soon enough we had boards in hand and we were making our way down to the beach.

The surf conditions were great, eventhough the tide was higher than expected. Some were a little nervous with the bigger 2-3ft waves but seemed to become more comfortable as the lesson progressed. The rain spluttered on us a bit more between gusts of south westerly winds but this didn’t seem to stir the students at all. They appeared to be enjoying the challenge of the conditions and having fun regardless.  At Stoked School of Surf we encourage our students to hit the surf whether it rains, hails or shines. In this way fears are overcome, confidence is boosted and ocean knowledge increases. Besides, being a ‘fair-weather’ surfer will never get you beyond the foamies…

Behind every cloud is a silver lining, after every rain storm lies a rainbow and after every surf a cup of white hot chocolate awaits. Thank you Steve, Magdelena, Johan, Claudia, Louise and Mandy  for trusting Stoked’s judgement and hitting the surf to experience the ‘stoke’ despite the rain.

Read reviews on our Facebook Fan Page or on Tripadvisor to see what past students have to say about learning to surf with Stoked School of Surf.